Understanding Fragrance Lingo: Do You Know The Difference Between An Eau De Parfum & Eau De Toilette?

The creation of perfume is as much of an art form as the designer working in a couture atelier ahead of their latest catwalk show; scent is created with passion, love, skill and knowledge, but the difference is it can be appreciated by all. Fragrance comes in many different forms, which not only impacts the quality of the scent but the concentration and longevity too. Have you ever stood at a counter and wondered why there's such a difference in price between the EDT and EDP you've had your eye on? Have you ever wondered what those little letters stand for and what the difference inside the beautiful bottle actually is? We're often so used to seeing beauty lingo that we don't pay much attention to it, preferring to opt for the more affordable alternative without much reasoning behind the purchasing decision. So what if you were equipped with all the information you needed to make an informed selection, and stepped away not only with a fragrance you loved - but a scent that provided you with everything you need it to do and more? I believe that everyone should be able to appreciate a fine fragrance (no matter their personal interests, tastes or skill level,) so here's a little breakdown of the key information you need to know to ensure your next purchase is an informed one. 


Perfume (or 'Extract') is the most expensive version of any fragrance, due to the high concentration of essences and oils that see up to 40% of the formula being pure scent (the rest being water.) Perfume is applied sparingly and directly to the skin on pulse points (insides of the wrists, behind the ears, on the neck) for an elegant result. Pure perfume ensures that people just catch a subtle sniff of your scent when kissing you on the cheek, rather than you being engulfed in it altogether; it's an incredibly vintage approach to scent, and the purest example of how women would have worn their perfumes throughout history.

Eau de Parfum is the strongest form of scent usually available from beauty counters. It contains over 15% (and upwards of 30%) of pure essence, providing a strong scent that keeps throughout the day due to the intensity of the base notes. It's perfect for spraying on clothing and hair, as it clings to the surface to ensure you remain fragrant. Although less intense than pure perfume extract, it's easier to apply and much more affordable. Traditionally, this is the type of fragrance most perfumes are initially launched in to create a strong aroma that tells a story and lasts.

Eau de Toilette can contain up to around 10-20% aromatic essence. The top notes are dominant, making it refreshing when applied, but it tends to evaporates and fade away quite quickly. Eau de Toilette is the most popular form in which fragrance is sold, mainly due to its price point and availability; most brands launch an EDT six months to a year after an initial launch, ensuring the scent remains current and affordable. Particularly perfect for the summer, when you want an uplifting and refreshing scent to re-apply throughout the day, toilettes are the perfect handbag accompaniment. 

Eau de Cologne is at the bottom end of the range, in terms of both concentration and price. This tends to contain about 2-7% essence for a burst of fragrance, but it doesn't usually last long at all. This makes it a perfect scent for hot days when you need to continually freshen up and ensure you're smelling sweet rather than sweaty. It tends to be available in large sizes of up to 200ml because of its price and high concentration of water, as it's actively encouraged to re-apply this multiple times. It's a great way to test new scents, spice up your fragrance portfolio or evolve from body sprays into something a little more sophisticated.

According to Karine Dubreuil-Sereni, lead perfumer on Michael Bublé’s debut perfume, our use of each of these has evolved over the decades and is also determined by geography: “In Europe, after a long period of lightness and freshness, intense fragrances (EDP, EDT Intense, Elixir) are preferred both for men and women. In Middle East, they have always liked intensity, perfumes are very concentrated because they want them to be very diffusive. On the contrary, in Asia people enjoy lightness and freshness so EDT are preferred. Each of these can be used alone or mixed with a lighter perfume to benefit from a layering process, inspired by an oriental tradition."

Additionally, the notes of a fragrance are essentially the ingredients used to make up the overall scent; more often than not these are via top, middle and base notes that evaporate at different times to provide a fragrance that evolves as it's worn. Fragrances are often described via specific notes to help the reader picture the scent for themselves and identify what it may smell like, using their own frame of reference. Accords are a combination of notes, that together create a complementary overall scent. In the same way you hold down several notes in music to create a chord that has a unique sound, in perfume several ingredients are blended together to form a distinct fragrance.

There's no right or wrong type of fragrance, way to wear it or price you should be prepared to pay - it completely depends on your personal preference and budget. Karine recommends an EDT for people who like discreet and light fragrances, while those who enjoy opulent and powerful fragrances would rather invest in EDP.